Trebinje

Trebinje is the kind of city that rewards travellers who venture beyond the main circuit. Just 30 km from Dubrovnik (and far better value), it is Herzegovina’s southernmost city: a warm, unhurried place of stone-paved squares, river cafés, Orthodox churches, and serious wine production. Most visitors to the region never make it here; those who do tend to wonder why it is not better known.

Getting to Trebinje

The easiest approach is from Dubrovnik: 30 km north and about 40 minutes by car through the Croatian border crossing at Karasovići/Ivanica. The border is generally smooth outside peak July-August weekends. Public buses run once or twice daily from Dubrovnik bus station; the journey takes about an hour.

From Mostar, Trebinje is roughly 100 km southeast via a scenic but winding road through the Bregava valley and Herzegovina’s dry limestone karst — allow 1h30-2h by car.

A luxury wine and Trebinje day trip from Dubrovnik is a popular option for those without a car, covering the old town, winery visits, and a lunch with local wines. For independent visitors, a private Trebinje city tour is available with a local guide.

The old town

Trebinje’s old town is a compact, walled Ottoman-era core beside the Trebišnjica River. The main square, Trebišnjica Square (locally called Trg slobode), is shaded by large plane trees and lined with café terraces — in the evenings, this is where the town takes its evening walk (korzo). The pace is distinctly slower than Mostar; Trebinje is primarily a city for Bosnian and Serbian tourists, not international day-trippers.

The nearby Arslanagić Bridge (also called Perovića Bridge) is a 17th-century Ottoman arched bridge spanning the Trebišnjica — quieter and less commercialised than Mostar’s Stari Most, and free to approach at any hour.

Hercegovačka Gračanica

The most distinctive sight in Trebinje is the Hercegovačka Gračanica church, perched on a hilltop above the city. Built in 2000, it is modelled on the 14th-century Serbian monastery of Gračanica in Kosovo — a deliberate cultural statement. The church is Serbian Orthodox, and the interior contains frescoes in Byzantine style.

The hill (Crkvina) also holds the mausoleum of Jovan Dučić, the poet and diplomat who is considered one of the greatest Serbian poets of the modern era; he was born in Trebinje and requested burial here. Views from the hilltop over the Trebišnjica valley and toward the Adriatic mountains are excellent.

Access is by a footpath from the old town (20-25 minutes uphill) or by car. Entry to the church is free; modest dress expected.

Wine: Trebinje’s best-kept secret

Herzegovina’s wine country centres on the Trebinje and Mostar areas, and Trebinje is increasingly regarded as the finer of the two for red wine production. The dominant grape is Vranac (a robust, tannic red native to the western Balkans), alongside Blatina and the white Žilavka.

Key wineries near Trebinje include Tvrdoš Monastery Winery (a functioning Orthodox monastery 4 km from the city that has produced wine since the 15th century — their Vranac is sold across Bosnia) and Anđelić Winery (boutique, appointment recommended). The annual wine harvest festival takes place in late September to early October.

Winery visits are generally possible with advance notice; prices for a tasting and bottle are modest by European standards (20-35 BAM for a tasting). A wine-focused day trip from Dubrovnik that includes winery visits and a meal is the most structured way to experience this side of Trebinje.

Where to eat and drink

Stari Grad restaurants along the riverfront (Obala Luke Vukalovića) offer ćevapi, roštilj (grill) and fresh fish at reasonable prices — a full meal with wine runs 25-40 BAM. Restoran Park (main square) is a reliable, affordable choice. For coffee and local ambience, any of the plaza cafés on Trg slobode are authentic.

Trebinje has no pretentious tourist restaurant scene. Prices are noticeably lower than Mostar or Dubrovnik.

Trebinje vs the Dubrovnik day-trip crowd

Trebinje makes an excellent base for day trips to Dubrovnik (reversed from the usual direction) — parking in the old walled city costs nothing, and hotel prices in Trebinje are 40-60% lower than comparable options in Dubrovnik. If your priority is the Dalmatian coast but you want a non-Croatian base, Trebinje is worth considering. The border crossing adds 10-15 minutes each way.

Practical details

• Accommodation: Hotels and guesthouses start from around 60-100 BAM per night. Hotel Leotar and Hotel Platani are well-regarded options in the old town area.
• ATMs: Available in the old town; BAM is the standard currency (EUR less reliably accepted here than in the tourist hotspots of Herzegovina).
• Language: Serbian/Croatian/Bosnian (Cyrillic and Latin scripts both used). English is spoken in hotels and some restaurants but less commonly than in Mostar.
• Day trip logistics: A day trip from Dubrovnik is viable; allow 4-5 hours in Trebinje. Those who stay overnight appreciate the evening atmosphere. See the Herzegovina wine guide for winery details and the Trebinje church guide for background on the Gračanica.