Trebinje and Hercegovačka Gračanica — the Orthodox gem of southern Herzegovina
Trebinje Tour with Luxury Transport and Wine Tasting
What is Hercegovačka Gračanica?
Hercegovačka Gračanica is a Serbian Orthodox monastery church built in 1996 on Crkvina Hill above Trebinje, modelled on the medieval Gračanica Monastery in Kosovo. It holds the heart of the poet Jovan Dučić and offers panoramic views over the Trebišnjica river valley.
Most visitors to Herzegovina stick to the Mostar–Kravice–Blagaj triangle. Trebinje, 80 km to the south-east, barely features in most itineraries. This is a mistake. Trebinje is arguably the most handsome small town in Bosnia, its old quarter preserved and unhurried in a way Mostar — battered by war and rebuilt for tourists — can no longer claim to be. Above it, on Crkvina Hill, a Serbian Orthodox monastery church commands views of the Trebišnjica river valley that justify the climb alone.
The town
Trebinje sits on a bend of the Trebišnjica river, the largest sinking river in Europe — an underground river that disappears for long stretches through the Karst and resurfaces near Dubrovnik as the Ombla spring. The valley is wide and fertile, planted with vines and pomegranate trees, and ringed by limestone ridges that shimmer white in summer.
The modern town is unremarkable. Walk through it to reach the Stari Grad — the old fortified town built in the 18th century by the Ottoman commander Osman Resulbegović. The old town is barely 200 metres across, enclosed by stone walls with a single main gate, and contains a dozen or so houses, a small mosque (Arslanagića džamija), a clock tower and a central courtyard. The scale is intimate rather than monumental. A café occupies one corner; locals sit in the shade and play cards.
Outside the walls, the main square (trg) is animated in the evenings with café terraces and a small outdoor market. Trebinje’s food scene punches above its weight for a town of 35,000 — fresh trout from the river, smoked prosciutto from the village, local cheeses, and above all local wine.
Hercegovačka Gračanica monastery
The Serbian Orthodox monastery church on Crkvina Hill is the reason most visiting Christians come to Trebinje. Built in 1996 as a replica of the 14th-century Gračanica Monastery in Kosovo — one of the masterworks of Serbian medieval architecture — it stands on a flat-topped hill above the town, reached by a winding road or a steep footpath.
The original Gračanica, built by King Stefan Milutin in 1321, is famous for its elaborate system of interpenetrating arches and domes, considered one of the high points of the Raška school of Serbian medieval architecture. The Trebinje copy is smaller but faithfully reproduces the cascading rooflines, the Byzantine cross plan, and the frescoed interior.
Inside, the church is decorated throughout with contemporary frescoes in the Byzantine tradition — gold-ground icons, elongated saints, the Pantocrator in the central dome. Whether or not you are Orthodox, the visual coherence and devotional intensity of the space are striking. The church holds the urn containing the heart of the poet Jovan Dučić, returned from the United States in 2000 as his last wish — to rest in his native town.
Book a Trebinje wine and heritage tour from Dubrovnik — the most efficient way to combine the monastery, the old town, and wine tasting in the Popovo Polje region in a single day from the Croatian coast.
Dress modestly to enter the church: covered shoulders and knees for both men and women. Photography is permitted in the nave but not during services. There is no entrance fee; a donation box is near the door.
Tvrdoš Monastery and the winery
About 3 km south-west of the town centre, Tvrdoš Monastery sits in a narrow gorge above the Trebišnjica river. It is one of the oldest active Orthodox monasteries in Herzegovina, with documented history going back to the 15th century, though the present buildings are largely 18th and 19th century reconstructions.
The monks here produce wine — specifically Žilavka (white) and Vranac (red) — under the Tvrdo label. The winery is one of the most respected in Herzegovina and the wines are sold throughout Bosnia and exported to Orthodox diaspora communities in Europe and North America. A tasting room is available to visitors; call ahead or ask at the monastery gate.
The gorge setting — limestone cliffs above, dark water below — is dramatic even without the wine.
Wine in the Trebinje region
The Popovo Polje plateau stretching north of Trebinje is one of Herzegovina’s most productive wine areas. The karst terrain, high sun exposure, and relatively low summer rainfall produce grapes of intense concentration. Žilavka, a Herzegovinian white variety, gives dry, minerally whites with citrus and green apple notes. Blatina and Vranac are the main reds — full-bodied and tannic, best with roast lamb or grilled meats.
Several private wineries have opened in recent years, welcoming visitors by appointment. The town’s restaurants all carry local wines; a glass costs 3–6 BAM (1.50–3 EUR), a bottle 15–30 BAM (8–15 EUR) at the source.
For a full treatment of Herzegovina wine, see the Herzegovina wine guide.
Trebinje from Dubrovnik — a natural day trip
Dubrovnik lies only 30 km from Trebinje. The border crossing at Ivanica is one of the quickest on the Bosnian frontier — rarely more than 10–15 minutes even in summer. The combination of Dubrovnik’s Adriatic baroque and Trebinje’s Ottoman-Slavic heritage, separated by half an hour of driving, is one of the Balkans’ finest contrasts.
Most Dubrovnik visitors spend at most 4–5 hours in Trebinje, which is enough for the monastery, the old town and a long lunch. A full day allows wine tasting and a drive to Tvrdoš or the Popovo Polje. See the Bosnia from Kotor guide if you are approaching from the Montenegrin coast, where Trebinje is equally accessible.
Where to eat and drink in Trebinje
Platani (Trg slobode): the most popular café-restaurant on the main square, under plane trees, with reliable Bosnian staples and local wines. Good for a long lunch.
Restaurant Most: near the old bridge, specialising in fresh river fish — trout from the Trebišnjica, prepared simply. Prices 20–40 BAM (10–20 EUR) for mains.
Kafana Anex: traditional Bosnian grillhouse in the old town, popular with locals. Ćevapi (grilled meat sausages) 10–15 BAM (5–8 EUR).
Brewery Trebinje (Pivara Trebinje): a small craft brewery near the bus station that has become a social hub. Local Trebing beer on tap; bar snacks.
Practical information
Distance from Dubrovnik: 30 km, 45–50 minutes by car. Distance from Mostar: 80 km, 1h20 by car via the Neretva valley. Currency: BAM (1 EUR = 1.95583 BAM). Euros may be accepted but at a worse rate. ATMs in the town centre. Accommodation: Small hotels and guesthouses from 50–90 EUR/night. Not many options — book ahead in June–September. Border crossing: Ivanica (Trebinje–Dubrovnik) is the most used. Bring passport or EU ID card. Green card insurance required for vehicles registered outside Bosnia. Language: Serbian (Cyrillic and Latin scripts both used). English spoken at hotels and some restaurants; limited elsewhere.
Frequently asked questions about Trebinje
Is Trebinje worth visiting without a car?
Buses run from Dubrovnik bus station to Trebinje several times daily (approximately 90 minutes, 10–15 EUR). Organised tours from Dubrovnik are the easiest option. Within Trebinje, everything worth seeing is walkable.
What is the difference between Trebinje and Mostar for visitors?
Mostar is bigger, more touristic, ethnically mixed (Bosniak and Croat), and anchored by the famous Old Bridge. Trebinje is smaller, quieter, predominantly Serbian Orthodox, and less visited by international tourists. If you have time for both, they complement each other well. If forced to choose for a day trip from Dubrovnik, the two are so different that the choice depends entirely on your interests.
Is it safe to drive into Republika Srpska?
Entirely. Republika Srpska is part of Bosnia and Herzegovina. The political situation between the entities is sometimes tense at the governmental level, but there are no security issues for tourists. Standard road rules apply; third-party insurance (green card) is required for foreign-registered vehicles.
Frequently asked questions about Trebinje and Hercegovačka Gračanica — the Orthodox gem of southern Herzegovina
How do I get to Trebinje from Dubrovnik?
Can anyone visit the Hercegovačka Gračanica monastery?
What is the old town of Trebinje like?
What wine does the Trebinje region produce?
Is Trebinje in Bosnia or Republika Srpska?
Who was Jovan Dučić and why is his heart in Trebinje?
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