Počitelj

Počitelj is often described as the best-preserved Ottoman village in the western Balkans — and it is hard to argue with that. Clinging to a steep hillside above the Neretva River about 25 km south of Mostar, the village is a tightly packed cluster of honey-coloured stone houses, a sixteenth-century mosque, a hamam (bathhouse), and a distinctive hexagonal defensive tower at the summit. It takes one to two hours to see properly, and the views from the top are outstanding.

Getting there

Počitelj sits just off the main M-17 road that follows the Neretva south toward Čapljina and the Croatian border. From Mostar, it is 25 km and about 30 minutes by car. There is roadside parking at the base of the village.

Public transport does not serve Počitelj directly; most independent travellers drive or take a taxi from Mostar (around 35-40 BAM return with waiting time). Most visitors come as part of an organised tour that combines Počitelj with Blagaj and Kravice. A full-day Herzegovina tour including Počitelj is a practical option if you do not have a car.

The village on foot

The stone path from the car park climbs steeply through the main residential area. Most buildings are private homes, some in good repair and some still showing war damage from the early 1990s — the village was heavily damaged in 1993 and restoration has been ongoing but uneven.

The Šišman Ibrahim-pasha Mosque (also known as the Hadži Alija Mosque), dating from 1563, is the centrepiece of the lower village. It has been restored and is open to visitors for a small fee (around 3 BAM). Remove shoes; modest dress is appropriate. The interior is simple and beautiful.

The Gavrankapetanović Tower at the top is an unusual hexagonal fortification from the 16th century. The climb is about 10-15 minutes from the mosque; the last section involves a steep, stepped path. From the top there are unobstructed views over the Neretva gorge, the village rooftops, and the surrounding hills.

The hamam (Ottoman bathhouse), now disused, sits between the mosque and the tower. It is visible from outside; entry is not typically possible.

Practical tips

Time needed: Allow 1.5-2 hours to see the village properly — mosque, tower summit, and a wander through the stone lanes. Do not rush the climb; the path is uneven and steep in places.

Shoes: Proper footwear matters here. The cobblestones are polished smooth and become slippery when wet or when worn by summer sandals. Trainers or walking shoes are strongly advised.

Heat: In July and August, the south-facing stone village bakes. The temperature can be several degrees hotter than Mostar. Start early (before 10am) or come in the late afternoon. Bring water — there are one or two small cafés/gift shops but no restaurants within the village.

Photography: Počitelj is a photographer’s location. The best light is early morning (east-facing walls lit warm) or late afternoon (west-facing terraces golden). The view from the tower is best before midday.

What to combine it with

Počitelj fits naturally into a Herzegovina circuit:

• Blagaj Tekija (13 km north): the Dervish monastery at the Buna spring — roughly 1.5-2 hours.
• Kravice Waterfalls (35 km west): a short detour off the main road toward Ljubuški — swimming possible April through October.

Together, these three sites form the classic Blagaj, Počitelj and Kravice day tour from Mostar, taking roughly 7-8 hours in total.

The Počitelj Ottoman village guide has more detail on the architecture and history, and the best day trips from Mostar guide covers how to combine all three sites efficiently.