Bosnia by public transport
Sarajevo: Old Town Walking Tour with Local Guide
Bosnia is absolutely doable without a car. The bus network is comprehensive between major cities, tickets are inexpensive (Sarajevo to Mostar: ~18 BAM / ~9 EUR), and the train between Sarajevo and Mostar is one of the most scenic rail journeys in south-east Europe. This 9-day itinerary builds a practical route around actual timetables and gives honest advice on where public transport works and where it does not.
| At a glance | |
|---|---|
| Route | Sarajevo → Mostar → Sarajevo, with day tours to Herzegovina and Jajce |
| Cost | roughly 40–55 EUR/day including guesthouses, food and two guided day tours |
| Time needed | 9 days as written; can be trimmed to 7 by cutting one Sarajevo day |
| Getting there | fly into Sarajevo (SJJ); bus/train onward, no rental car |
| Best time | late spring or early autumn, when Bosnia’s shoulder-season weather keeps buses comfortable and trails open |
This plan deliberately leans on the same bus and tram network locals use every day, so pacing matters more than on a driving itinerary — see the 7-day itinerary for a faster, mixed-transport comparison, or the 10-day itinerary for a slower version with a car.
Day 1: Arrival in Sarajevo
Fly into Sarajevo (SJJ). Public bus line 36 runs from the airport arrivals hall to the central bus station (Sarajevo Main Bus Station) for 5 BAM; journey time around 35 minutes. Taxis from the airport should cost 30–35 BAM to Baščaršija — agree the fare before you get in.
Check in, orient yourself with a slow walk through the bazaar, and take an evening Old Town walking tour to understand what you are standing in.
Days 2–3: Sarajevo — war history and highlands
Day 2 is for the Bosnian War and Fall of Yugoslavia tour, which includes transport to the Tunnel of Hope Museum in Butmir — no private car needed. The tour departs from the old town and returns you there at the end.
Day 3: tram line 3 runs the length of the former Sniper Alley (now called Zmaja od Bosne) all the way to Ilidža terminus. From Ilidža, horse-drawn carriages take visitors along the poplar-lined avenue to Vrelo Bosne springs park (5 BAM round trip). A pleasant morning without a car, followed by lunch at one of the park’s riverside restaurants.
Tram tips: A single tram ticket costs 1.80 BAM (~0.92 EUR) bought from the driver or at kiosks. The network covers the whole valley between Ilidža and Baščaršija. Trams run from 05:00 to 23:00.
Days 4–5: Sarajevo to Mostar by bus or train
The Sarajevo–Mostar bus runs approximately every hour from Sarajevo’s main bus station (various operators: Centrotrans, Autoprevoz). Journey time: 2 h 30 min. Fare: 16–18 BAM (~8–9 EUR) one-way. Buy tickets at the station counter, or pay the driver on less busy departures.
The Sarajevo–Mostar train is the more atmospheric option — but check current operational status before relying on it, as timetables are subject to seasonal and maintenance changes. When running, it is 2 h 40 min through the spectacular Neretva gorge. Fare: ~14 BAM (~7 EUR). Both train and bus stations in Mostar are a 15-minute walk or 5-minute taxi ride from the old bridge.
Two nights in Mostar. Day 4: Stari Most and the old town. Day 5: take a guided day tour to the Herzegovina highlights — Blagaj, Počitelj and Kravice Waterfalls — with the Mostar day tour to Blagaj, Počitelj and Kravice. This tour departs from central Mostar and includes return transport — no car required. It is also the most efficient way to reach Kravice, which has no direct public bus.
What you cannot do by bus alone: Kravice Waterfalls has no direct public transport. Blagaj has infrequent minibus connections. For Herzegovina day trips without a car, a guided tour is by far the most practical solution.
Days 6–7: Mostar to Sarajevo and day trips
Return to Sarajevo by bus (same Centrotrans service, 16–18 BAM). Two more days in Sarajevo allow you to book the Travnik, Jajce and Pliva Lakes day tour from Sarajevo on day 7. This tour departs from the old town and includes all transport, making it the only practical way to visit Jajce by public transport in a single day (direct buses to Jajce do exist but are infrequent and timed for commuters, not day-trippers).
Alternatively: A direct bus from Sarajevo to Jajce runs twice daily (morning departures) via Zenica and Donji Vakuf — journey time about 3 hours, fare ~20 BAM (~10 EUR). Check current timetables at the main bus station or the BusTicket4.me website.
Days 8–9: Sarajevo — deeper dives
Two final days in Sarajevo for the things you missed. Options:
- The Franz Ferdinand assassination site (Latin Bridge), the National Museum and the History Museum of Bosnia and Herzegovina are all walkable.
- The Trebević cable car (tram 3 to the Bistrik terminal, then 15-minute walk to the lower cable car station) costs 20 BAM round trip.
- Lukomir village guided hike: departs from Sarajevo by minibus — no private car needed.
- Cooking class or Bosnian coffee workshop in the old town.
On day 9, bus or taxi to the airport. Airport bus line 36 from Ilidža tram terminus runs to the airport in 20 minutes for 5 BAM.
Public transport practicalities
Tickets: Most bus tickets are cash only at the counter; some operators accept cards at larger stations. Keep BAM notes handy.
Luggage: Buses have understorey luggage storage; normal hold-all or backpack is fine. Oversized bags are usually stored for a small fee.
Left luggage: Sarajevo main bus station has left-luggage lockers (5–10 BAM per day). Mostar bus station has less reliable storage.
Language: Bus staff speak limited English outside Sarajevo and Mostar. Google Translate works well offline. Display the destination name in writing rather than relying on pronunciation.
Apps: BusTicket4.me is the most useful booking app for Bosnian buses. Balkan Viator also covers regional routes. Train bookings via Željeznice Federacije BiH website (Bosnian language only; use Google Chrome for auto-translation).
What to budget: A car-free 9 days in Bosnia including accommodation (guesthouses ~50–80 BAM/night double), food (~30–50 BAM/day), transport (~100–120 BAM total for buses and trams) and two guided day tours (~100 EUR) comes to approximately 40–55 EUR/day — one of the most economical city-break destinations in Europe.
Day-by-day summary
| Day | Base | Focus | Transport used |
|---|---|---|---|
| 1 | Sarajevo | Arrival, Baščaršija orientation | Airport bus, on foot |
| 2 | Sarajevo | War history, Tunnel of Hope | Guided tour (transport included) |
| 3 | Sarajevo | Sniper Alley tram, Vrelo Bosne | Tram, horse carriage |
| 4 | Mostar | Stari Most and old town | Bus or train from Sarajevo |
| 5 | Mostar | Blagaj, Počitelj, Kravice | Guided day tour |
| 6 | Sarajevo | Return, rest | Bus from Mostar |
| 7 | Sarajevo | Travnik, Jajce, Pliva Lakes | Guided day tour |
| 8 | Sarajevo | Latin Bridge, museums, cable car | Tram, on foot |
| 9 | Sarajevo | Departure | Airport bus |
Booking buses and trains ahead vs on arrival
For most routes on this itinerary, you do not need to book ahead. Sarajevo–Mostar buses run frequently enough (roughly hourly) that turning up 20–30 minutes before departure and buying at the counter works fine outside major holidays (Bajram, Christmas/New Year, and the August peak). The exception is the Sarajevo–Mostar train: seats are limited and it does not run daily year-round, so check the current timetable the day before rather than assuming it will be waiting for you.
If your dates are fixed and you are travelling during a festival (the Sarajevo Film Festival fills accommodation and buses fast), reserve accommodation well ahead even if the bus itself does not need pre-booking.
FAQ
Do I need to book Bosnian buses in advance? Usually not for the main Sarajevo–Mostar route, which runs close to hourly. Book ahead only around major holidays, festival weeks, or if you need a specific departure time.
Is the Sarajevo–Mostar train better than the bus? Scenically, yes — the Neretva gorge section is genuinely spectacular. Practically, the bus is more reliable, since the train’s schedule is subject to seasonal changes and occasional suspension.
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