Best restaurants in Sarajevo
Experience Sarajevo: Bosnian Cooking Class
Where should I eat in Sarajevo?
For traditional food: Aščinica Inat Kuća, Kibe Mahala, and Barhana. For a neighbourhood ćevapi fix: Ćevabdžinica Željo. For a modern take on Bosnian cooking: Restoran Pivnica HS. Budget travellers do well at any buregdžinica near Baščaršija from 2-8 BAM a dish.
Sarajevo’s restaurant scene has two distinct personalities that coexist without too much friction. There is the traditional track — aščinicas, ćevabdžinicas, and kafanas where the food has changed little in a century — and a growing modern track of cafés and restaurants interpreting Bosnian ingredients with more contemporary technique. Both are worth exploring; the mistake is spending your entire trip on either one alone.
Traditional aščinicas (ready-food restaurants)
Aščinicas are uniquely Bosnian institutions. Derived from the Ottoman word for cook (aşçı), they are working-class restaurants where a small daily menu of slow-cooked dishes is set out in large pots each morning and served at communal tables until it runs out. The food is cooked in the tradition of the komšiluk (neighbourhood community) — rich, slow, and seasonal.
Aščinica Inat Kuća
On the south bank of the Miljacka River facing Baščaršija, Inat Kuća occupies a beautifully restored 19th-century wooden house that was famously dismantled and moved stone by stone in the 1890s during an argument with city authorities. The menu runs to begova čorba, japrak, dolma, and slow-roasted meats. The view back across the river to the old quarter is one of the best in the city.
Prices: 10-20 BAM per main dish. Open daily 11:00-22:00.
Aščinica Dveri
A small, low-ceilinged aščinica in the old town with perhaps the most consistent begova čorba in Sarajevo. Daily specials depend on the season; arrive before 13:00 for the widest choice.
Aščinica Hasanaginica
On Baščaršija’s covered market street, Hasanaginica serves traditional food at communal tables from early morning. Popular with market workers and local office staff — a reliable indicator of quality.
Ćevabdžinicas (ćevapi specialists)
For ćevapi, Baščaršija is the natural destination. See the full Sarajevo ćevapi guide for a comprehensive breakdown. In brief:
- Ćevabdžinica Željo (Kundurdžiluk 19-21): the benchmark
- Ćevabdžinica Petica: slightly less crowded, consistently good
- Ćevabdžinica Hodžić (near Ferhadija): excellent kajmak
All run 9-12 BAM for a portion of ten.
Mid-range restaurants
Barhana
On Ćemaluša street, a short walk from Baščaršija, Barhana is the closest Sarajevo comes to a “modern Bosnian” restaurant — traditional dishes (japrak, lamb, burek) prepared with more care and presentation than the standard aščinica. The wine list is also thoughtful. Mains cost 18-28 BAM.
Kibe Mahala
One of the oldest continuously operating restaurants in Sarajevo, Kibe Mahala on Čizmedžiluk occupies a restored Ottoman-era building with a courtyard terrace. The menu is traditional: slow-cooked meats, soups, Bosnian stews. Strong on atmosphere; one of the better vegetable dolma in the city.
Restoran Pivnica HS
The brewery restaurant of Sarajevska Pivara (Sarajevo Brewery) on Franjevačka street is a city institution. Long wooden tables, unpretentious service, and a menu that goes from ćevapi to full Bosnian roasted dishes. Their house-brewed lager (Sarajevsko Pivo) is one of the best accompaniments to a meat-heavy lunch.
Mains: 12-20 BAM.
International and modern cafés
Sarajevo’s Ferhadija and Titova streets have a cluster of modern cafés with European menus — useful if you need a break from the traditional track. For a city break, the Raum café on Titova and the Cinemas complex café in the city centre are local favourites for coffee, pastries, and light lunches.
Food tours for orientation
A Bosnian cooking class in Sarajevo is an excellent way to understand the food before eating it in restaurants — you learn how burek, čorba, and traditional sweets are made, which transforms subsequent meals from mere eating into informed appreciation.
For a guided market-to-restaurant experience, the city market food tasting tour gives context on Markale market and the main dishes before you navigate the restaurant scene alone.
Practical notes for eating in Sarajevo
- Eating hours: lunch 12:00-15:00 (main meal in Bosnian culture), dinner 19:00-22:00. Aščinicas typically close between meals or run out of food.
- Reservations: rarely needed except for the most popular spots on weekends in summer
- Payment: most traditional restaurants take cash (BAM); newer establishments accept cards
- Tipping: rounding up or leaving 10% is appreciated
- Halal food: standard across all traditional Bosnian restaurants; pork appears mainly in café and international menus
- Patio season: May-September, outdoor terraces are universal
For drinking alongside dinner, see the Bosnian coffee guide and the Herzegovina wine guide. The Eat Where the Locals Eat food tour remains the best single introduction to the city’s eating culture for those with limited time.
Frequently asked questions about Best restaurants in Sarajevo
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